Northern Michigan Solar Powered Cabin 

 Alternative Energy Living at the 45th parallel  

 

 

 

 

 Updated:07/28/2010                  ENTIRE SITE IS COPYRIGHT 2010, MC PHOTOGRAPHY                       BEST WHEN VIEWED ON A 16:9 SCREEN 

Learn about alternative energy, hybrid systems and watch pointless videos!
If you have any questions, contact us. I'm always happy to provide a convoluted answer to a simple question. At this site, you can learn from my real world experiences in solar energy production and how I produce power at our cabin in Northern Michigan. The cabin is located right on the 45th parallel near Gaylord, Michigan. Check out our photography site  which has some photos around the cabin in the nature and winter sections. 
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This is the legacy site. The new site has much more content and features and can link to your Facebook page.
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Reviving Deep Cycle Batteries
 Diary update: Bartering items
Peukerts formula explained
T = C/(I/(C/R))n X (R/C)
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Some of the projects that we are currently working on:
You are viewing the old site. All new updates, articles, diary entries, videos, show episodes, confusion, beer consumption and other semi-legal activities now take place at the new site. Become a member there and contribute your input, thoughts and hangover information. - Bill Xam

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We're going to build our own solar panels! 
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But why solar power?

There were several reasons for the switch:

  • Sprinkle of rain = power failure.

  • Giving a little back by not using so much.

  • Independent living.

Benefits:

  • Renewable power.
  • Learning about solar power.
  • Own stock in the solar panel company. :-)
  • I like batteries.
  • I can sit around smoking a cigar because I'm an energy mogul!

Drawbacks:

  • Maintenance.
  • Installation.
  • Bunch of black glass panels sitting around.

You are reading Part 3 of three, Equalizing batteries. This article is about how to remove sulfation from a battery

Part 1, About batteries

Part 2, Revive batteries

Part 3, Revive batteries through equalization

 

Equalizing your battery bank.

NOTE: DO NOT EQUALIZE GEL OR AGM BATTERIES! EVER! AS IN NEVER EVER.

The process of equalizing your battery or battery bank can be a daunting and frightening effort if you've never done it before. Simply put, you are going to shove so much voltage into your battery bank that you will be very nervous the first few times you do it. When you see the voltages required you will quake, your feet will sweat and your computer may crash just from reading about it. 
But, no worries, done right it will eliminate the need for a desulfator, extend the life of the bank and keep everything up to snuff. What you are going to do is use the charging process in a controlled over charge to cause the sulfate crystals to break free from the lead plates instead of vibrating them with a desulfator. The equalizing process takes 3 to 5 hours, a equalizer takes up to 3 weeks. Also, what I've found (see the table of voltages below) is that it may take 2 or 3 equalizing charges over a period of 12 to 24 hours (with a battery rest period of several hours between equalizing) to break the sulfates loose from the lead plates.
The sulfuric acid in the electrolyte reacts with the lead plates in a
chemical reaction that produces electricity as well lead sulfate. When the battery is charged electricity flows into the battery and causes another chemical reaction that turns the lead sulfate back into lead and sulfuric acid. With each discharge and recharge cycle, a small amount of lead sulfate will remain on the plates. Using a three-stage "Smart" charger, the amount of residual sulfate left on the plates will be less but some will still accumulate with each discharge
and recharge.
What equalizing does is well, equalize the cells in the batteries. It is a controlled overcharging of the battery bank and is easier to do on an entire battery bank (or part of one). When to do it varies greatly depending on how you use your bank. If you discharge your bank every night (smaller banks or heavy loads) then you'll want to do it once a week. If you use the bank occasionally, then once a month to even six months is okay.
Equalization is basically a controlled overcharge that extends your battery life by knocking deposits off the lead plates via a boiling process. Keeping any eye on the electrolyte is very important in this process. Do NOT fill the cells with distilled water before starting. The process generates heat and causes the electrolyte to expand. Fill AFTER charging only!

Here's a handy chart. Just use a piece of paper and write down all your own charging figures. As you can see, the capacity increased with each charge cycle. I did not put a load on the batteries, only let them rest for 12 hours between chargings.

start voltage, full charge Equalizing voltage (at peak) Charging time After/rest voltage
12.45 15.03 4 hours 12.67
12.67 16.35 5.5 hours 12.77
It's usually easiest to do this with a generator or a fully manual battery charger (I prefer Schumacher chargers - I have one that I bought in 1975!). Charge the batteries using your normal charging procedure, via solar panels, wind generator or a fuel powered generator. 
Once it's at a indicated full charge, remove all loads, chargers, disconnect any other devices. Keep charging for 2 or 3 hours longer. Monitor the process,  take specific gravity readings 30 minutes apart and continue the process until the readings stop increasing. A sensitive hydrometer is recommended for this part.
An equalizing charge is an overcharge cycle that performs several actions within the battery bank. During equalization, the voltage is raised to approximately
2.7 volts per cell, or about 16.2 volts for a 12-volt battery! 16.2 volts is a lot!
This is the part about doing this on a battery bank instead of on a single battery. You want the amperage to be 5% or less of the total bank amp hour size.
 In other words, a 200-amp hour battery bank should be charged at no more than 10 amps of current. The purpose of limiting the amperage is to prevent overheating. 
The equalize cycle is timed to be between 4 and 8 hours depending on the features
of the charging source, but the cycle can always be terminated early if necessary. 
The battery manufacturer's recommendations for equalization time should be followed.
This elevated voltage results in a vigorous charging action to take place within each cell that does several things to the battery bank. 
First, much of the residual sulfate is forced to re-combine with the
electrolyte in the form of sulfuric acid. 
Crystallized sulfate that will not recombine is broken loose
from the plates and falls harmlessly to the bottom of the battery. Remember that part in the "Revive a dead battery" page about washing out the battery? Well, this is where that comes in. Deep cycle batteries have additional space beneath the plates intended to collect this material. This cleans the plates exposing fresh lead to the electrolyte and restores battery capacity.
After 20 to 30 of these equalizing charges, there will be a lot of crap in the bottom of the batteries. 
The vigorous bubbling action that occurs during equalization stirs up the electrolyte and restores it to a consistent mixture of acid and water. The equalizing process also causes all cells in a battery to reach their maximum idle potential of 2.1 volts.

It is a good practice to equalize batteries after every 10 or 12 deep discharge and re-charge cycles. For batteries in constant discharge and recharge usage, this would mean about every two weeks.

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How I test
There are several people on various newsgroups and discussion areas that waylay in uninformed or those just starting out in the off grid world of self power generation. This involves an almost religious belief in a phantom 6v golf cart true deep cycle battery that is superior in every way to any other battery in existence.

A simple examination of the specification sheet for a line of 6v and 12v off grid batteries will tell you quite clearly that there is no one single best solution for all circumstances. It is not accurate to say one is best.

Our system has been using the much maligned Harbor Freight 45 watt solar panel kits for 4 years. Over these years, we've moved them back and forth from the main home in Saline, Michigan to the shack in Gaylord. They've been dropped, exposed to heavy rain, snow, sleet, hail. One even has even had the glass on it shattered from a tree limb dropping on it.
Look, using testing equipment is all well and good but those spec sheets don't mean squat if you can't run YOUR stuff for as long as you want to. So what I do (so you don't have to) is get the equipment (batteries, inverters, solar panels) and put what I run on it. Usually about 30-50 watts at 12 volts - few amps of draw. You know, turning lights on and off, running a computer (a laptop) and whatnot. 
Throughout the test, a digital meter is run on the bank and a hydrometer is used once an hour to determine whether the meter is reading the correct voltage. During the sunlight hours on the panels, there is another digital meter installed at the primary junction box (where the panels feed into the 10 gauge cables that feed to the charge controller) that measures panel voltage and amps.
One of the things that I like the best about alternative energy is that you can make it as complicated or simple as you like. Some people, even though they use alternative energy simply don't have a good grasp on the entire substance that goes into the makeup of an engineered system that has been built from scratch.
Don't ask me why, but I've recently become interested in studying earthquake/volcano activity around the world; ash plumes and such. I've added a page with RSS feeds and links to satellite imagery. 
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